The full 80km from Landmannalaugar to Skógar. This takes between 4-6 days.
This section combines the Laugavegur route (55km)and the Fimmvörðuháls route (25km). I added a final day of walking 36km to Reynisfjara in order to make it a full N-S crossing of Iceland.
The final 36km to the sea. The whole day was spent trying not to walk on the main road and instead I ended up thigh deep in a bog.
The Laugavegur trail is the most famous trek in Iceland. It usually takes 4 days but I did it in 3 as I ended up walking day 1 and day 2 together. The traditional itinerary is:
Day 1: Landmannalaugar- Hrafntinnusker. 12km. 4-5 hours.
Day 2: Hrafntinnusker- Álftavatn. 12km. 4-5 hours.
Day 3: Álftavatn- Emstrur. 15km. 6-7 hours.
Day 4: Emstrur- Þórsmörk. 15km. 6-7 hours.
You can then choose to add on the Fimmvörðuháls route. This is usually done in 1-2 days.
Day 5: Þórsmörk- Skógar. 25km. 9 hours. 1000m of ascent.
You can choose to break this up into two days by staying at either Balsvinsskáli hut owned by Ferðafélag Íslands (Iceland Touring Association, FÍ) or Fimmvörðuskáli hut owned by the Útivist touring club.
Looking towards Brennisteinsalda over the lava fields, having just left Landmannalaugar.
The view from the foot of Brennisteinsalda volcano, looking out over the obsidian lava fields, back towards Landmannalaugar.
First day on the trail, ridiculously happy!
Hrafntinnusker hut in the distance, this photo was taken in early September and as you can see there was already a fair amount of snow about.
This is the section between Hrafntinnusker hut and Álftavatn. The route was quite up and down with some of the ascents and descents being very steep, especially with a big pack in the snow.
Little bit later on the track between Hrafntinnusker hut and Álftavatn. Still ridiculously happy.
Stunning views on the way towards Álftavatn.
One of the most photographed sections of the Laugavegur. The route goes from 1000m above sea level to 530m at Álftavatn lake. This is where the hut and camp site are :)
I didn’t take so many photos in the next couple of days towards Þórsmörk. I ended up making a pal on the walk and spent my time talking to him instead of getting lots of pictures. The scenery was still fabulous though and the days went by fast. Eventually we ended up at Þórsmörk and departed, but only after a few beers at volcano huts.
Emstrur campsite and hut, also known as Botnar.
The river Þröngá, the last river crossing before arriving at Þórsmörk Skagfjörðsskáli hut. Skagfjörðsskáli is over in the next valley, just behind the hill.
The next day I set off on the Fimmvörðuháls route, about 25km of walking, starting at 220m at Skagfjörðsskáli, reaching a maximum of 1020m on the trail up near Modi and Magni before finishing at 10m at Skógar.
The uphill walk in the morning was fairly demanding but absolutely stunning, above 900m it turned to snow and ice and there was a small section that was so steep a chain had been put in place to make it easier to walk up. At the top of the pass you reach the Goðahraun lava fields, which were created during the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption. You also pass by Móði and Magni, named after the sons of Thor, they translate as ‘Courage’ and ‘Mighty’, also created by the 2010 eruption they are two of the youngest craters in Iceland.
The descent is gradual and easy on the knees, you follow the river Skógá all the way down to Skógar, passing over 20 waterfalls, all of which are equally dramatic in their own unique way. The finale is Skógafoss waterfall, a huge 25m across veil of water, plunging 60m to cover those at the bottom in spray. I spent that evening camping at Skógar campsite, before pressing on the next day for the last 36km to complete the walk!
Views looking back towards Þórsmörk, about 31/2 hours walking from Skagfjörðsskáli.
One of the many waterfalls on the Skógá river, which you follow for the entirety of your descent towards Skógar.
Back at 10m above sea level at the small village and tourist settlement of Skógar. Bearing in mind that the max height of the
6th of September 2019 was my last day of walking! It was a little underwhelming as most of it was spent trying to get off the ring road as much as possible, despite the route mainly following the road. At one point I took what I thought would be a short cut across Hvammsá stream, but it turned out the entire section was bog and I ended up thigh deep wading through water at times. It was the dirtiest I had been in the entire 20 days, and so it was that stinking, filthy but happy I reached the edge of Reynisfjara.
The whole journey covered 610km, taking 20 walking days with 3 rest days in between, and I can honestly say that they were the most relaxing, thoughtful and fulfilling 20 days of my life so far. With that in mind, what’s stopping you from doing the same!
Reynisfjara peninsula, you can see the point I was aiming for!
The most southernly point of the Icelandic mainland, with the famous Reynisdrangar basaltic sea stacks in the background.