Lower Franklin and Gordon Rivers, Tasmania (4 days)

This was my second packrafting trip and for it I persuaded my friend Eric to join me. A keen bushwalker and resident of Tassie, I trusted Eric completely, with him looking more into the bushwalking side of the trip and me the paddling. A well known packrafter who lived in Launceston lent Eric a packraft, paddle, helmet and pfd and after a quick food shop we set off towards Strahan, close to the mouth of the river Gordon. 

The trip comprised of three main parts:

1. The ferry and paddle upstream of the Gordon river to the beginning of Eagle Creek track.

2. The 10km bushwalk along Eagle Creek track to Flat Island.

3. A paddle of the lower Franklin and Gordon back to Heritage landing on the river Gordon. 

Day 1- Strahan to 1/2 on eagle creek track

We started the day bright and early, leaving Strahan at 8:30am on the Lady Jane II with 'Gordon River Cruises'. It was a beautiful ferry ride across Macquarie heads harbour and the lower Gordon river to Heritage Landing.

We clambered down to a boardwalk, past a flurry of tourists, and began assembling the packrafting gear. Both of us were reasonably nervous, the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park is seriously remote and once away from the safety of the landing, we would be well and truly on our own. The only navigation we had was google maps saved to our phones, and a couple of maps I had saved of the lower rivers. Ideally, it would have been good to take a sat-comms device. 

Finally once we were all packed up we got into our rafts and started the 5km paddle upstream to Eagle Creek campsite where the track begins. This trail is of particular historical significance, it was cleared in the 1840's as part of two year project that saw General James Calder and a team of convicts bush wack in miserable conditions. Their aim being to provide a route for Sir John Franklin and Lady Jane to travel from Lake Saint Clare to the Gordon River.  Subsequently it was used during the piners era and in the late 1970s and early 80s during the Franklin Dam controversy. It has fallen in disrepair in the last couple of decades, the thick temperate rainforest claiming back what it had lost. Luckily for us though it had been somewhat cleared and tagged with pink tape by a local environmental group. 

Despite this work it is still a demanding track; thick dense rainforest covers almost every inch of spare space making it difficult to follow. In the beginning it is obvious but once up to pig hill and onto the button grass it can become easy to lose the path. This is one place that you don't want to become lost.  

We managed to walk about 1/2 of the track in the mid afternoon to late evening and then camped on the only clear bit of space we could find for two tents, on the path itself. That evening we discovered that both of us had multiple leaches on our ankles and legs and subsequently decided to be more vigilant the next day. 

dAY 2- eagle creek track to blackmans bend

The next morning we were up early to begin walking. I was excited to reach the button grass plains, after a day of tramping in dark foliage, the thought of sunlight was pleasing. How wrong I was! The button grass was high and untamed, making it very difficult to see the tape, and the track was terribly overgrown (button grass grows incredibly fast). Walking along I came to a sudden stop, coiled up in front of me was a meduim sized black snake. I froze. Every species of snake in Tasmania is venomous and the poison dangerous to humans. I shouted Eric over "Err Eric, there is a snake on the path." Eric, ever the bushman, seemed unflustered, unlike myself, and told me to go round it. 60 seconds later there was another one, sunning itself in the early morning rays, again Eric remained composed and we passed it. Shortly after there was a third and  I could now sense the tiniest shake in Eric's resolve, just how many snakes were there up here! It was then that we realised we hadn't seen any pink tape in a while and the area where we were stood looked unlikely to be the path. Slightly concerning. We found a spot of higher ground and from there we could see pink tape fastened to a tree, flapping in the distance. Phew, carefully we picked our way through the button grass and onto the track again, before being plunged back into the dense foliage of the forest. 

Around midday we came to the Franklin river, we had made it! Both of us were incredibly excited, the water was calm with a slight current and looked particularly inviting, especially as it meant we didn't have to carry our heavy packs any more! We ate our lunch on Flat Island, tried to dry our tents etc, and then packed up and popped into the river. It was marvellous! We cruised along, barely having to paddle just taking in the awe of the river and serenity around us. Absorbed by the scenery we quickly arrived a Blackmans bend, a cleared area of rainforest upon which to set up camp. 

About an hour later a team of commercial rafters turned up, with 2 big rafts and around 8 clients, they were as surprised to see us as we were to see them. I must admit I was glad to know they were also on the river; the next day we would encounter Double Falls and Big Falls, the latter of which has claimed lives. It was reassuring to know that the following day they would be coming up behind us. 

day 3 - blackmans bend to lower gordon hut

We left earlier than the commercial team the next morning. Both of us were slightly anxious and I was keen to get double and big falls out the way so we could enjoy the rest of the river. On the bends there were some grade 1/2 rapids that we passed with ease and after taking a look at double falls we decided to run the first and portage the second. The first went well, both of us grinning at each other in the knowledge we had managed it. We got out to portage around the second. At first it was difficult to find a portage, but then Eric found an opening with some knee high water that we could wade through. 

Back on the river we knew that soon we would be approaching Big Fall. This was the most dangerous section of the river and we knew that we would portage it. We got out the river just before the falls on the right side and it became apparent that it would be a slightly slippy haul. The falls were impressive, but as we carried our stuff round I was glad to have my feet on ground rather than attempting the white water.

Back on the river the waters became calm and tranquil once more, we passed the majestic Verandah cliffs before coming to the confluence of the Franklin and the Gordon. As we paddled out onto the wide Gordon river we knew we were on the final stretch. Just before Lower Gordon hut we came across Sir John Falls, so named after Sir John Franklin, the former Lieutenant Governor of Van Diemen's land from 1837-1843. He later died, along with all his crew, sometime in the late 1840's during an expedition to find a northwest passage through the Arctic. 

That night we slept at lower Gordon hut, along with a group of 4 kayakers from Launceston and the commercial rafters. It was New Years Eve and our companions generously shared their bounty of alcohol with us, making for a merry welcome to 2017. 

day 4- lower gordon hut to heritage landing

We had been warned that during strong winds the paddle back to Heritage landing could be strenuous. Thankfully the winds were favourable and we made good time. So good that by early afternoon we were already back at the landing. We set up camp on the boardwalks in anticipation of the ferry the next day.

Not expecting to see anyone we lazed about in our tents; reading or just filling time. Suddenly a horn blew outside, a different ferry company 'world heritage cruises' had landed. The tourists that came out looked at us in confusion, ‘where did these guys come from?’ Hurriedly, we packed up in the hope we could get a lift back to Strahan that night. We were in luck, and within an hour we were were back where we started, all that was left was to pack up Eric's van and drive the 4 hours back to Hobart that evening.

All in all this was a fantastic trip, set in an area of vast, wild beauty. That said there were times we both felt out of our depth; nearly losing our way in the button grass and the nerves of approaching Double Falls reminded us of the fragility of our situation. We now look back fondly, an would wholeheartedly recommend the route, but bush walking and previous white water experience are necessary.