The star shows where Gaibandha is. We stayed there 3 nights in a government guest house which Russ had organised. Unfortunately from this moment on Russ was unable to paddle further south as his boat broke.
The Brahmaputra-Jamuna was wildly different to the Teesta; wider, deeper and much more heavily braided. However, one thing they did have in common was a substantial lack of flow.
I had downloaded the google satellite maps for the area and was amazed to see that in the few years since the images had been taken the rivers course had drastically altered. For example, I would be paddling through water but according to the maps I was on land or vice versa.
After having a rest day in Gaibandha me and Russ got back into the river at Fulchhari Ghat. We had only been paddling about 1 1/2 hours when we noticed a little air was escaping from the seam along the inside of Russ’ boat. Rushing to a sand bank we quickly set about fixing it with a puncture repair kit. Unfortunately this only made things worse. Even with the hole sealed, the added pressure became too much and within seconds the entire seam ripped. Note to self; don’t buy a Klymit packraft.
Russ was absolutely gutted, we hailed a small fishing boat and they took us back to the ghat we had started at that morning. Both of us were completely silent on the way, each absorbed in our own thoughts. We headed back to Gaibandha, found somewhere to stay and began to discuss options. It was obvious that Russ couldn’t carry on, but could I? Would it be safe? I decided to carry on. I would be able to contact Russ by phone and together we wrote a ‘magic letter’ that I could take with me. Russ translated it from English into Bangla.
The next morning Russ came with me back to the ghat. It was emotional, but we were also disturbed by a TV crew that, rather bizarrely, had turned up from DBC news (see video below). The camera man followed me on a boat for the first 10 minutes and then after that, I was alone. It was hard to know how to feel in those moments; on the one hand I felt free but on the other I was aware of just how much Russ had done throughout our trip so far. These decisions would all be up to me now.
The next five days consisted of figuring out how to do things by myself. Basics like where to stop for food, finding places to wild camp and villages to stay at suddenly mattered a lot more and I was heightened to my own sense of vulnerability. One thing that really struck me was just how kind people were; sure I had no personal space what-so-ever, but I was also never hungry, thirsty or without a bed to sleep in.
HIGHLIGHTS
Seeing the Ganges river dolphins, an endangered species, jumping out the water.
Staying with a family in a village about 2 km south of Gosainbari. The crowds were absolutely ridiculous and at one point, whilst showering, my host shouted ‘Are you nearly finished? I can’t hold them back much longer!’
Wild camping behind a sand bank, and a farmer finding me. I managed to encourage him to hide with me a while, which we both thought was hilarious. Turns out the signal for shhh, with a finger on the lips, is the same worldwide. I later ended up camping outside his house.
Turning up at a police station in Shivalaya, to the officers utter bemusement, and them finding me a government guest house to stay in. I had dinner with one of the officers and his family, and he shared with me some incredible stories.
Having a day off in Sirajganj to explore and get a little personal space.
LOWLIGHTS
The disappointment on Russ’ face when he realised he wouldn’t be able to carry on.
The language barrier. With Russ there I was able to have some communication with locals as Russ translated. Without him, I was limited to either basic conversation or only being able to talk to those educated enough to know English.
